Types of Construction
Construction refers to the internal structure of a piece and the methods through which it is assembled. These choices determine how it holds its shape, moves with the wearer, and endures over time. At our atelier, construction is chosen in relation to the cloth, the purpose, and the preferences of the wearer.
Full Canvas
Full canvas construction forms the traditional foundation of a well-made jacket. A layer of canvas, horsehair, wool, or cotton, sits between the cloth and the lining, stitched in by hand.
Because this structure is sewn rather than bonded, the jacket settles gradually to the wearer. The chest shapes naturally. The lapel develops its roll. The piece finds its balance without becoming rigid.
With continued wear, it grows more itself. That is why this method remains the most respected in fine tailoring.
The method of making determines the balance, line, and character of a garment.
Deconstructed
A deconstructed jacket is built with minimal internal structure, allowing the cloth to move more freely across the body. Padding and canvassing reduced. The piece remains light and natural to wear.
The silhouette becomes softer. The cloth follows movement. The shoulders feel lighter. Suited to warmer climates, or occasions where comfort and form carry equal weight.
The making of a garment determines how it sits, moves, and endures.
Fused
Fused construction uses an interlining bonded to the cloth through heat and pressure, forming the internal structure of the jacket without a stitched canvas.
The silhouette holds a clean and consistent form from the outset. The front remains smooth. The overall line clearly defined. A streamlined construction, polished and well-tailored in result.
The discipline of the making determines the integrity of the garment.