What Sits Within
Construction is the structure beneath the cloth — the layers built in between the outer fabric and the lining, and the degree to which they are sewn by hand. It decides how a garment holds its shape, moves with the wearer, and endures. We work across three, from the most structured interior to the least, each chosen against the cloth, the purpose, and the man.
Full Canvas
Full canvas is the traditional foundation of a well-made jacket. A layer of canvas sits between the cloth and the lining, stitched in by hand rather than bonded.
Because the structure is sewn, the jacket settles to the wearer over time. The chest shapes naturally, the lapel develops its roll, and the garment finds its balance without ever becoming rigid.
With wear it grows more itself, not less — the most demanding interior to build, and the one most respected in fine tailoring.
Fused
In fused construction the interlining is bonded to the cloth with heat rather than stitched. The garment takes its shape from the outset and holds a clean, consistent line.
It suits a lighter or more structured piece — a summer jacket, a garment meant to keep a sharp front without softening to the body over years. Where full canvas is built to move and mould, fused is built to hold its form.
We use it where the cloth and the purpose call for it, and we say plainly when they do.
Deconstructed
A deconstructed jacket is built with minimal internal structure. Padding and canvassing are reduced, letting the cloth move freely across the body, so the piece stays light and natural to wear.
The silhouette softens, the cloth follows movement, the shoulder feels unweighted. It belongs to warmer climates and to the days when comfort and form carry equal weight.
Construction is chosen in answer to the cloth. See the cloths we work with →
