Our Bespoke Process
A disciplined and time-tested approach. Shaped by hand, developed through conversation, refined through fittings. The process does not shorten.
1. Sartorial Assessment
It starts with you. We talk through what feels right, what does not, and what you have grown used to compromising on. The conversation is easy but reveals more as it unfolds. We pay attention to what is not said directly, the way you stand, the way you settle into your clothes.
It is then that we begin to look for the cloth.
2. Fabric Selection
Fabric is selected with a clear focus on suitability and performance. Fibre, weave, weight, breathability, crease recovery, and durability, each considered in relation to how the garment will be worn.
Cloth is presented with context. Selections are drawn from Scabal, Zegna, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, and Hardy Minnis. Wool remains central, across Super 110s to 180s, offering a balance of structure, softness, and durability. Seasonal considerations introduce cashmere, flannel, Irish linen, and wool-silk-linen blends. Each cloth selected to serve the intended use and longevity of the piece.
3. Measurements
Over thirty points measured and recorded in detail. Posture and habitual movement noted alongside. All measurements are taken to the millimetre.
4. Pattern Drafting
A personal paper pattern drafted by hand from the recorded measurements and observations. No standard blocks. No templates. Darts, balance lines, armholes, and ease calculated individually. This pattern governs every future commission.
5. Cloth Cutting
The chosen cloth laid out and cut by hand. Aligned carefully to grain and nap, patterns matched where required. Structural points marked clearly. Allowances kept at selected seams for future alterations.
6. First Fitting
The first fitting allows the structure and balance to be assessed. Basted together with a soft canvas, lightly set sleeves. Drape, collar contact, comfort, and ease of movement all examined. Necessary corrections identified.
7. Marking Up
Following the first fitting, the garment is opened and marked with all required adjustments. Changes to shoulder pitch, dart placement, sleeve balance, and hem alignment marked directly on the cloth and transferred back to the pattern.
8. Second Fitting
The corrected piece reviewed and refined. Proportion, balance, and ease of movement checked. Adjustments at this stage are small and precise.
9. Hand Finishing
Once the fit is finalised, the piece is completed by hand. Buttonholes sewn, canvas pad-stitched to control the chest, linings set to float. Edges finished cleanly. Stress points reinforced. Pressing controlled throughout.
10. Finished Garment
Inspected in detail for balance, alignment, strength, and finish. After final pressing, it is ready for wear.
At Mr. Fox, a bespoke commission is never simply made. It is developed through conversation, craft, and time. For many clients, this becomes an ongoing relationship with the atelier, where a wardrobe is built carefully over the years. We invite you to book a consultation.